Đạo quan Thổ Lâu - Chùa Bắc Thiền

The Tulou Taoist Temple, also known as Beichan Temple ("North Zen Temple") or the North Mountain Temple, is one of the oldest religious sites in Xining, built into the red sandstone cliffs of North Mountain on the northern edge of the city. Although less famous than Kumbum Monastery or the Dongguan Mosque, the temple is a rewarding stop for travelers with an interest in frontier religious architecture, cave temples, and old Qinghai — and the panoramic view over Xining from the upper terraces is one of the best in the city.

The temple's history is genuinely layered. According to local tradition, the first religious structures on the site date to the Northern Wei dynasty in the 4th to 6th centuries — making it one of the oldest religious complexes in Qinghai. Originally founded as a Buddhist monastery, the site later transitioned to Daoist use, and the present mix of cave shrines, wooden pavilions, and cliff-side halls reflects centuries of renovation, reconstruction, and re-purposing. That layering is part of the appeal — walking through the site is a lesson in how religious sites in northwest China accumulated meaning over time.

The North Mountain geology is striking. The cliff is a classic Chinese red-bed formation, carved by wind and water into the wavy, undulating pattern that locals call the "nine caves and eighteen holes." The temple architecture is built directly onto this sandstone face: cave shrines tucked into natural alcoves, wooden pavilions perched on ledges, and suspended walkways connecting the various halls and caves. The structures appear to cling to the cliff, and the experience of walking between them feels halfway between a temple visit and a light rock scramble.

The upper terraces give a sweeping view over Xining — the grid of the central districts, the minarets of the mosques, the green ridge of South Mountain opposite, and on clear days the Qilian foothills beyond. Photographers favor the viewpoint in the late afternoon, when the western sun catches the red rock.

For independent travelers with an interest in Daoist sites, cave architecture, or panoramic city views, Tulou Temple is a worthwhile half-day stop in Xining. Comfortable walking shoes are essential — the path is steep and uneven in places.