Hỉ Châu

Xizhou is a historic Bai town about eighteen kilometers north of Dali Old Town, wedged between the Cangshan range and the western shore of Erhai Lake. Less commercialized than Dali itself, it is widely considered one of the best-preserved Bai communities in the region and a destination of choice for travelers who want to see the architecture, food, and rhythms of traditional Bai life without the crowds of the old town. A day in Xizhou is one of the most rewarding cultural experiences in the Dali area.

The town is celebrated for its concentration of historic courtyard houses. During the late Qing and Republican periods, Xizhou was the home of some of Yunnan's most successful merchant families, the "Xizhou Bang," whose trading networks reached across China and into Southeast Asia. The fortunes they brought home were invested in grand residential compounds — multi-courtyard mansions decorated with fine wood carvings, painted eaves, marble screens, and courtyards designed to catch the Cangshan views. Many of these houses, including the celebrated Yan Family Compound, are now open to visitors.

Xizhou is also the birthplace of xiosha baba, the round, flaky, griddled flatbread that is one of Dali's signature snacks. Stalls selling sweet and savory versions of baba line the market street, alongside fresh Bai cheeses, pickled vegetables, and seasonal fruits. The morning market, when villagers from the surrounding countryside come to sell produce, is one of the most photogenic and authentic in the region.

The town is also home to the Linden Centre, a cultural guesthouse and education project housed in a restored courtyard compound that has become a model for heritage preservation in rural China. For travelers, Xizhou pairs well with a bicycle ride along the Erhai shore, a stop at the nearby Three Pagodas, or a more focused half-day of wandering its lanes and markets. Mornings are best, both for the market and for the light on the old houses.