Squirrel-Shaped Mandarin Fish

Squirrel-shaped mandarin fish is the most emblematic dish of Suzhou cuisine: a whole fish is boned, cross-scored, and deep-fried so the head and tail curl up like a squirrel, then doused with a hot sweet-and-sour glaze that often makes a sizzling sound at the table.

It is traditionally associated with the Songhelou restaurant in Suzhou and a folk tale of the Qianlong Emperor sampling it; its sweet-tart balance captures the city's taste for gentle sweetness and elaborate presentation.

Served hot as a banquet centrepiece, the flaky flesh is eaten straight away, coated in the tangy glaze that contrasts the crisp exterior with the tender inside.

Its squirrel-like form, crisp-yet-tender texture and sweet-and-sour flavour make it the showpiece of Suzhou knife work and seasoning.