Three-Fresh Bean-Curd Rolls

Doupi spreads a batter of ground mung bean and rice into a thin skin, layers it with glutinous rice, and adds a "three fresh" filling of pork, egg and shrimp; the whole sheet is pan-fried golden on both sides and cut into squares — crisp outside, soft within.

Doupi began as a rural Hubei home dish; in the 1930s the restaurant Laotongcheng brought in the cook Gao Jin'an to refine the three-fresh version, and after hanging out its "King of Doupi" sign it became famous across Hankou.

Usually eaten as a breakfast or meal staple, cut into squares while hot and served in portions, often paired with a clear soup or sweet egg-wine.

The art is a thin crisp skin, glossy glutinous rice and a savory three-fresh filling, delivering crunch, chew and umami in a single bite.