Laotongcheng

Laotongcheng opened in 1931 as a Hankou restaurant. In the 1930s it hired the noted cook Gao Jin'an to perfect its three-fresh bean-curd rolls and hung a "King of Doupi" sign on its roof, which sealed its fame.

Laotongcheng's bean-curd rolls rank with Cailinji's hot-dry noodles and Sijimei's soup dumplings among the city's classic snacks, a breakfast calling card for generations of locals.

The bean-curd roll spreads a mung-bean-and-rice batter into a skin wrapping glutinous rice with the "three fresh" filling of pork, egg and shrimp, pan-fried to a crisp golden finish over a soft center.