Lemongrass Grilled Fish

Lemongrass grilled fish is the emblem of Dai barbecue: a fresh river fish from the Lancang (Mekong) stuffed and wrapped with lemongrass, coriander and other tropical herbs, then clamped between green bamboo splints and slow-roasted over an open flame.

The dish grows from the Dai life of Xishuangbanna: living along the Lancang, they draw on its fresh fish, and take lemongrass and green bamboo from the rainforest to shape a barbecue tradition of tropical flair, the most celebrated of Dai dishes.

Brought to the table whole, its skin crisped and flesh tender, perfumed with lemongrass and a faint breath of bamboo, it is torn by hand and eaten with sticky rice and a pungent Dai dipping sauce, indispensable at any Dai gathering.

The technique of grilling the fish clamped in green bamboo, and the lemon-bright fragrance of lemongrass running through the tender flesh, are what set this dish apart from grilled fish elsewhere.