Jingdezhen Cold Rice Noodles (Lengfen)

Lengfen is Jingdezhen's most representative rice-noodle snack. Unlike rice noodles elsewhere, Jingdezhen's are unusually thick, about half a centimetre across, with a springy, chewy bite. Served cold and tossed, it is one of the locals' favourite everyday breakfasts.

Lengfen evolved from the everyday rice foods of northeastern Jiangxi, drawing on the rice-farming tradition around Jingdezhen, with the noodles made from rice. Though cold noodles exist in many places, Jingdezhen's thick strands and heavily spiced dressing set it apart as a distinct emblem of the porcelain capital's cuisine.

The cooked noodles are cooled and tossed with a rich set of condiments: chili paste, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, spring onion, fermented black beans, and the local touches of pickled greens and dried tangerine peel. Eaten right away, it is prized for being spicy yet fragrant and tangy, usually as breakfast or an afternoon bite.

Thick, chewy strands coated in glossy red chili sauce, layered with savory, sour and spicy notes, with tangerine peel and pickled greens giving a distinctive aftertaste; it is the dish by which a Jingdezhen breakfast stall is judged.