Xitang Water-Town Freshwater Crab

These freshwater crabs from the ponds and channels around Xitang are Jiangnan river crabs whose females carry full golden roe and males thick translucent paste in autumn, the meat sweet and fine, with the bright freshness typical of water-town river produce.

Xitang sits among the waterways of the Hangzhou-Jiaxing-Huzhou plain, where nine rivers cross within the town and clear, food-rich waters have long yielded fine crabs and river produce; tasting crabs in autumn is a centuries-old seasonal rite of the Jiangnan water towns.

Plain steaming best preserves their sweetness, eaten hot and peeled with ginger, vinegar and a cup of yellow wine, the seasonal centrepiece of an autumn Xitang table and a perfect match for the local rice wine.

The full roe and paste of autumn, the sweet fine flesh of river produce, and the seasonal pairing with Xitang yellow wine define this crab.