Liangpi (Cold Skin Noodles)

Liangpi is a cold dish common across Guanzhong: a thin sheet steamed from rice or wheat-starch slurry is cut into strips and tossed with seitan, shredded cucumber, chili oil, aromatic vinegar, garlic water, and salt for a springy, refreshing bite.

It is said to descend from Tang-era chilled noodle dishes, branching in the Xi'an area into Qinzhen rice-skin, wheat-skin, and other styles, and stands as the region's classic summer noodle.

Usually eaten cold on its own or alongside roujiamo, it is sour, spicy, and appetizing; rice-skin tends to be softer while wheat-skin is chewier, each with its devotees.

A good bowl prizes a thin, springy skin and a balance of chili fragrance and vinegar tang, making it a national favorite that rivals roujiamo on Xi'an's streets.